Barbacoa in Puerto Rico: showbar, sea view and an evening that never stops

The detour to the marina

Let me admit it straight away: I didn't find the Barbacoa on the first attempt. My sat-nav kept sending me away from the big shopping centre, a little further each time, and I was sure it was leading me astray. I ended up at the Puerto Rico marina. Wrong turn — but honestly, not a bad mistake. The harbour with its boats is a sight in itself, and anyone who lands there should get out and take a look.

Because the Barbacoa is not down on the strolling promenade, not in the mall where most holidaymakers wander. It's up the hill a little, right next to the Centro Comercial Europa. You drive up, and with the sat-nav it's easy enough to find in the end — you just need to know it's up top and not down below. If you come with a pushchair or wheelchair: the level access is at the «Babalu» roundabout, opposite the Puerto Rico medical centre.

Even on the way to the entrance you notice someone here is thinking ahead. A big display board lists the day's events with times. Football was on — that much was clear at a glance. And the menu hangs outside, oversized — in eight languages, behind glass, in a proper frame. No tatty, dog-eared cards. That has style, and it says: take a look before you decide.

Not a restaurant — a little village

Inside, I spoke with one of the managers, and he put it nicely. «It's a restaurant, a kids' park, a cocktail bar, an Irish bar, a tourist centre», he said. «Almost like a small resort.» The key, he said, is the kids' park — because it all belongs to the same company. The family arrives, the children play, the parents have a restaurant, a cocktail bar, live music and a show — all on one site, all from one hand.

That's exactly how it feels as you walk through. Two big areas for children. Two giant screens — football on one, motorsport on the other, both sides well attended. A stand where you book excursions: boat, sailing boat, bus tours. Next to it small bazaars with souvenirs and ice cream, even a kebab stand. And in the middle of it all, the showbar. It's a bit like its own little town, where everyone picks what they fancy.

Anne does the welcoming. She has lived on the island for 25 years, has worked at the Barbacoa for seven, speaks German — and clearly knows half of Puerto Rico, so many people greet her in passing. Later, José, one of the managers, also wrote to me. He likes to describe his place as «somewhere that has something for every taste»: breakfast with a sea view in the morning, a football match or Formula 1 on the terrace at lunch, the Sunday Roast on Sundays while the children play in «Jungle Land» — and then dinner and a show in the evening. I experienced exactly that sequence on a single Saturday.

What's on the plate

The menu is broad and honestly put together. Breakfast, sandwiches, toast, wraps, omelettes, plus the usual mains, a children's menu, vegan options, small dishes for a small appetite. British, international, Spanish, all mixed — there really is something for everyone here. And the prices? Completely reasonable. Not inflated, not suspiciously cheap. Exactly where you want them.

The room itself is dimmed in the evening, warmly lit, with little lamps on the tables around the stage. Walk through to the terrace and you have a clear view of the Atlantic. With the sunset it has a charm all of its own — the kind of evening mood you wouldn't really need a show for. Worth knowing: the terrace runs a slightly different menu from inside, because the same service isn't possible outdoors as in the hall.

I was too late for dinner myself that evening — I peeked a little at the neighbouring tables, and it all looked thoroughly good. What I did have time for: an espresso at the bar. €1.50, a water €2. And I'll say it as it is — rarely have I had such a good espresso. A small thing like that often tells you more about a place than the big menu.

Tom Jones at ten

The showbar is the heart of the evening, and it has a programme every single day, Monday to Sunday. It starts around 9pm: first comes a host, sings a few songs, warms up the room. This Saturday that was Kezza Belle, a singer with a really striking voice and a cool sound. Then, around 10pm, the main act. And yes — the main act deliberately comes late, because it's worth it.

This evening: Tom Jones. Or rather Chris Spencer as a Tom Jones tribute. I come from music myself, and I look at this sort of thing more closely than most. My verdict: the man hits the notes, he is uncannily close to the original. This is no off-the-shelf playback act, this is someone who knows his craft. An hour, an hour and a half, with lights, with a stage — and afterwards the evening closes with games like «Open the Box». Joining in pays off, as they say.

And Tom Jones is just one evening among many. The show programme changes daily and is astonishingly varied: ABBA, Michael Jackson, a Beatles tribute, Amy Winehouse, Michael Bublé, Elvis, plus Country — which is of course my own passion — and a drag and cabaret show with the «Glamour Girls». Something for every taste. Which programme runs when is posted on the Barbacoa's Facebook and Instagram pages; best to check shortly beforehand.

Cocktails, live music and a reunion

Before the big show I was still out and about on the site, and the same thread runs through it here too: everything visible, everything honest. At the Cocktail Lounge the prices hang clearly on display behind glass. Tequila Sunrise €8, Margarita €9 — absolutely affordable. On the other side a DJ plays, until late.

A little further along is the Temple Bar with live music, every day. And there I met familiar faces: Dave and Dale, who also play in San Agustín and around Playa del Inglés. Out of a completely spontaneous moment we sang a song together — just like that, in the middle of the evening. It was wonderful, completely unexpected, and it reminded me of my own passion for music. You don't plan moments like that, they simply happen in a place like this.

And I found one more reason to come back: Gary Litko plays here too, a country musician who otherwise mostly performs in the south of the island and whom I have known for years. He once mentioned he was in Puerto Rico. Now I know where.

Who the evening is for

Before I get carried away, the sober points. The Barbacoa is up on the hill, not on the seafront promenade — you don't stumble in by chance, you go there on purpose. By car it works well, there's plenty of parking all around, and the bus connection is great too; I saw a bus station on the way. The place is barrier-free: wheelchair, pushchair — no problem at all.

One honest thing: the crowd here leans English and northern European. In summer many Britons come, in winter Scandinavians, Dutch, Danes; German guests, the house says, are rare so far. For the shows that's hardly an obstacle — tribute concerts live off the music, and everyone understands that. But anyone who values German-language hosting should know the evening runs internationally, mostly in English. Online I find that picture confirmed: the Barbacoa holds a «Travellers' Choice» award, with the entertainment, the breakfast and the value for money praised above all; some guests find the odd corner a little dated. My impression on this Saturday was thoroughly positive: friendly staff in matching black Barbacoa shirts, attentive service, moderate prices.

The Barbacoa is strongest for families. The children are taken care of in «Jungle Land» — free entry — and right next door there's a neatly kept mini-golf course that a holidaying couple expressly praised to me. Dad watches the football, mum has a cocktail at the music bar, and in the evening you sit together before the show. That evening I saw a lot of laughing faces and not a single grizzling child.

My conclusion: anyone who thinks they'll just pop into the Barbacoa for a quick coffee or a bite should better set aside the whole evening — because that's exactly what it becomes. Lights flash everywhere, music comes from somewhere at all times, a bit like a little Las Vegas up on the hill. Its own small village, where the whole family is occupied and nobody wants to leave. It thrilled me — and the next time I have visitors, I already know where we'll spend a whole day.

Frequently asked questions

Where exactly is the Barbacoa?

Up on the hill in Puerto Rico (Mogán), Calle Timanfaya 2, right next to the Centro Comercial Europa — not down on the promenade. Level, wheelchair-friendly access at the «Babalu» roundabout, opposite the medical centre.

What does entry to the show cost?

Nothing. The evening shows have free entry, as does the «Jungle Land» kids' park. You pay for what you eat and drink — and the prices are moderate.

When does the show start?

The showbar starts around 9pm with a host who warms up the room. The main act comes around 10pm. There are shows every evening, Monday to Sunday.

Which shows are on?

The programme changes daily — tribute acts from ABBA to Michael Jackson, the Beatles, Amy Winehouse, Michael Bublé and Elvis through to Tom Jones, plus Country and a drag show. The current weekly plan is on the «Barbacoa Gran Canaria» Facebook and Instagram pages.

Is the Barbacoa suitable for families?

Yes, very much so. Kids' park, mini-golf, big screens for football and motorsport, a children's menu and a programme that runs from morning until late — the whole family is catered for.

What language does the evening run in?

Mostly English and international. German guests are rare so far. The music shows work for everyone, but there is no German-language hosting.

How do I get there?

By car is easiest — there's plenty of parking around the CC Europa. There's also a good bus connection. Open daily from 8am to 2am.