Gran Hotel Taoro: Tenerife's New Gourmet Destination

Some buildings are more than a hotel — they are a piece of history. The Gran Hotel Taoro is one of them. As Spain's oldest luxury hotel, it welcomed travellers for generations who already knew why they made the long journey to the Canaries: for the soft light, for gardens that have been growing for more than a hundred years, and for that view which, on a clear day, runs from the blue Atlantic all the way up to the snowless summit of Teide.

For a long time the grande dame stood more for the past than the present. Now she is back — and with a clever idea. Instead of simply renting rooms again, the Taoro is turning itself into a place you drive to even when you're not staying the night. The key to it all sits on the plate.

Amalur: Basque-Canarian, easy to love

The heart of it is Amalur, a contemporary bistro by chef Erlantz Gorostiza. Two cuisines meet here that fit together surprisingly well: the Basque, which stands for produce and precision, and the Canarian, which likes things warm and down to earth.

You can taste it. Garlic-prawn croquettes, crisp outside, creamy within. Braised brioche with citrus butter you'd happily eat on its own. A steak tartare done just right. Meatballs of black Canarian pork so tender they almost fall apart. And red prawns given a little fire with a touch of sobrasada. It's the kind of cooking where you glance across the table and nod — nothing complicated, everything exactly right.

Oka: Japan with a Teide view

If you prefer things quieter and finer, head to Oka. The Japanese concept goes back to an idea by Ricardo Sanz, one of the best-known names in Japanese-Mediterranean cooking in Spain, and is run on site by Emiliano Liska. At its centre is the sushi bar, where you'll want to take a seat and watch the knife at work.

The menu runs from a clear fish dashi through scallop sashimi and a lightly spicy tuna tartare to braised wagyu cheek that dissolves in the mouth. If you'd rather let go, choose the omakase: the kitchen decides, and all you have to do is enjoy. Japan, served with a view of the volcano — that isn't something you find on every corner.

Lava: the big night out

For the special occasion there's Lava, Erlantz Gorostiza's tasting-menu restaurant. This is where the kitchen hits top form: one course after another, creative and bold, moving between the Canaries, the Basque Country and the wider world. Seafood, vegetables from its own culinary roots, a playful hand with foie gras and wagyu — Lava is the place for the evening when you take your time, order a good glass of wine and simply let yourself be surprised.

La Carola: barefoot by the pool

And then there's La Carola, the most relaxed of the four. Set by the pool, with Mediterranean lightness and a wink towards Peru: octopus causa, ceviche, a tuna tiradito, a rice dish with lobster. This is the kitchen for the long afternoon, for the aperitif with a sea view, for the moment when you don't want to be anywhere else.

Why the drive north is worth it

For a long time Puerto de la Cruz was seen as a classic with tradition, but without much gourmet shine — the exciting kitchens were assumed to be in the south or the capital. The Taoro changes that. Four concepts in one place, from casual to celebratory, put the north of Tenerife on the map overnight.

The best part: you don't have to be a hotel guest. An evening at the Taoro pairs beautifully with a stroll through the old lanes of Puerto de la Cruz, a dip in the seawater pools or a sunset by the coast. Coming from the south or the capital, plan the whole afternoon — the drive north is part of the pleasure.