Víctor Suárez Puts Final Touches on His First Signature Cheese for Haydée

There is a quiet, focused energy in the kitchen of Haydée by Víctor Suárez these days. Perched in the Casa Fuerte building of the Hotel Gran Tacande Wellness & Relax in Costa Adeje, the team is not just perfecting its acclaimed tasting menus. Behind the scenes, the chef himself is putting the final touches on a deeply personal project: his very first signature cheese, a “queso de autor” crafted from a blend of goat’s and sheep’s milk. It is a logical, almost poetic next step for a cook whose entire philosophy is built on the soul of Canarian territory.

For those who have followed Suárez’s journey, this move feels less like a surprise and more like a natural evolution. Born in Tenerife and trained in some of Spain’s most demanding kitchens—under the watchful eyes of Eneko Atxa, Josean Alija, Martín Berasategui, and the Adrià brothers—he returned home in 2016 with a clear mission. He wanted to create a haute cuisine that spoke the language of his childhood, his grandmother Haydée’s kitchen, and the volcanic soil of the islands. Now, by venturing into the alchemy of milk, rennet, and time, he is adding a new, tangible chapter to that story.

A Homecoming in Costa Adeje

It is worth remembering that this new chapter is being written in a relatively new home. Haydée originally earned its Michelin star and a coveted Repsol Sol in the northern town of La Orotava. The move to the south, into the sleek, ocean-facing space in Costa Adeje, was a bold one. Yet, the transition has been seamless. In a remarkable show of consistency and talent, Víctor Suárez recovered his Michelin star for the new location just six months after opening the doors, during the gala held in Málaga on 27 November.

The setting inside the Gran Tacande is intimate and elegant, with the Atlantic providing a constant, shimmering backdrop. Here, Suárez presents his vision through two distinct degustation menus. The flagship “Raíz” is a deep dive into his culinary roots, a longer, more extensive journey. The “Atlántico” offers a shorter, yet equally precise, exploration of the sea and island flavours. Both are built on a foundation of local, proximity produce, making the introduction of a house-made cheese a thrilling prospect for regulars and newcomers alike.

The Mystery of the "Queso de Autor"

So, what do we actually know about this new cheese? At this moment, the honest answer is: very little. Víctor Suárez is a master of narrative, and he is keeping the details of his new creation under wraps. What has been confirmed is its existence—a high-level cheese made from goat’s and sheep’s milk, designed to be a signature element of his pantry. The exact ratio of the milk, the maturation period, the texture of the paste, and the character of the rind are all part of the secret.

This lack of public detail is entirely in character. It builds anticipation. We can, however, place the creation in its proper context. The Canary Islands boast a profound cheese-making tradition, from the smoked palm-wrapped Queso Herreño to the globally recognised, paprika-rubbed Majorero from Fuerteventura. For a chef of Suárez’s calibre to develop his own, working with local herds and milk, is a statement of intent. It is a way of controlling the narrative from the pasture to the plate, ensuring that every element on the tasting menu tells a story of this specific place.

A New Menu on the Horizon

The new cheese is not being developed in a vacuum. It is reportedly destined for a fresh tasting menu, expected to launch around October. This timeline makes sense, aligning with the shift into the autumn season when richer, more complex flavours come to the fore. Whether this new menu will replace one of the existing ones, run alongside them as a special offering, or simply see the cheese woven into the current “Raíz” and “Atlántico” journeys, remains unconfirmed.

What is certain is that the arrival of a new menu at a Michelin-starred restaurant is a significant event. It is a moment when a chef re-evaluates, refines, and pushes their own boundaries. For Suárez, who navigates an eclectic style with a clear Canarian starting point, this new cheese could be the anchor for a series of dishes that explore texture, temperature, and the deep savouriness that only a great cheese can provide. It might appear as a standalone course with a surprising preserve, grated over a root vegetable dish, or melted into a component of a main plate. The possibilities are as wide as the chef’s imagination.

More Than Just a Cheese

Ultimately, this “queso de autor” is more than a new menu item. It is a symbol of Víctor Suárez’s maturing relationship with his island. It represents a chef who, after training with the world’s best and earning the highest accolades, is still looking closer to home for inspiration. He is digging into the primary products, the raw materials that have sustained Canarians for centuries, and elevating them with a world-class technique.

For visitors to Tenerife, this development offers a beautiful excuse to book a table. A meal at Haydée has always been a journey through the memory and landscape of the Canary Islands. Soon, that journey will include a taste of something entirely new, born from the milk of local goats and sheep, shaped by the island’s climate, and finished by the hands of one of its most talented sons. We will be watching closely, ready to report on the first taste when the secret is finally revealed.